Friday in Chiang Mai

The bike ride from our moo baan (small neighborhood) to the Agape home is like something out of National Geographic; fluorescent-green rice paddies with silhouettes of purple mountain as backdrop. huge white cows with skin hanging in folds off of angular bones (looks like India :) graze by the side of the road 5 ft away from us. small rusted tin shacks glint in the afternoon sunlight which peeks through dark, threatening clouds. there are beautiful homes in the Lanna Thai style of architecture, made of rich dark wood, whose roofs come to a temple-style point. there are tropical flowers in varying shades of electric purple, whose scent mixes in with the smell of soggy garbage and rotten fruit. there are chickens running around all over the place, and water buffalo! Mangy stray dogs chase us, growling and nipping at my ankles. Motorbikes zoom past us with entire families hanging off the sides, and small pick up trucks with 10 people squished into the back, who stare and laugh at us because I'm sitting on the small back seat of the bike (which I guess is usually used for children.) I savor these mid-morning and late-afternoon bicycle rides (mostly because I'm not the one peddling 2 persons' body weight.) They're so romantic- especially when there's a sudden monsoonal downpour in the middle of the ride ;)

Our classes with the kids have been going well. The kids have really short attention spans and lose interest quickly, but it's fun to see the little girls practicing the dance moves on their free time, and there's nothing better than the pride shining in their eyes when Luke presents them with the portrait he's drawn of them. When you are one child in a family of 70, it is really important to feel unique and special, and I think Luke's portraits give the kids that gift.

Right now we are chilling in front of the fan. There is a lizard somewhere in the house that keeps saying cleck cleck cleck! really loudly. There is a cockroach the length of my middle finger, who this morning was perched on the wall above our bed, but whose location is now unknown. shudder.

5.1.08 - Thursday - Chiang Mai

Today was great. I am getting familiar with the lay of the land and getting better at the two-seater bike with Michelle. This morning I woke up from a dream about an old music teacher named Dr. P, Ryan, and Nerdrum. I’ve been dreaming a lot lately – I guess that’s pretty normal when in a new place. For breakfast I ate a mangosteen, the second to last piece of rye bread, and a couple Pringles - and then got to work preparing for drawing classes.

Monday I had the kids draw their Thai names into the drawing pads we hauled over from the Hiawatha Target. (I’ll be glad not to travel with those anymore!). After they thoroughly decorated that page, I had each class draw a friend. Yesterday I had the kids draw animals. I made 4-step instructions, starting with a circle or square and ending with a dog, butterfly, lizard, elephant, etc. – making sure they look somewhat Thai and not so American or African.

That worked pretty well, so today I had them draw cartoons. They included Mickey, Nemo, Pikachu, Batman and this funny character named Ultraman. This little dude was the print on the curtains of our Ton Sai bungalow – which were, no doubt, cut from kids’ bed sheets. I had never heard of him, but the kids knew him. And he only consisted of a few ovals, so he was easy to draw. The final image and the four steps below it were drawn on flimsy graph paper. I was pretty worried that the kids would tear them to shreds, the way any rowdy 10 year-old might handle something, but I was lucky to remember the clear plastic sheets that Michelle and I kept our important documents in. 10 sheets… perfect! I’ll reorganize those documents later.

It was pretty interesting seeing the different ways the kids handled the assignment. Some traced the final image into their drawing pads, some asked for help, and some plugged away through every step. Some smiled when I congratulated them and some played too cool (or didn’t understand me!) Some drew all 10 of the cartoons and some only a couple.



During the second half of each class, while the rest of the kids continue with the “lesson”, I draw a couple of the kids’ portraits. The kids are surprisingly patient for this and sit quite still. By now I’ve noticed some pretty characteristically Thai features, which makes it easier to complete the portraits in time. But one of the greatest things for me, is realizing that I see the kids so much differently after having completed their portraits. What was once (three days ago) a sea of (ok maybe getting politically incorrect) identical, storyless, little Thai kids, is now a group of fantastically unique children. I guess this might happen with any stranger you stare at for 20 minutes. Come to think of it, I recommend anyone give that a try (at their own risk, I suppose).



After class I hung out with some younger boys. Some were eating a snack of rambutans. It was amazing how fast they peeled and ate those spiny and pity things. After we played this game with little plastic chains – it was like jax. Then we did piggyback rides for a while.

After Michelle and I finished our 25 minute bike ride to the apartment and took a shower, we walked over to the neighborhood restaurant. Yesterday I had a great coconut cream red curry there and Michelle had Pud Thai. Today Michelle had green curry spaghetti (pronounced by the server as “sa-pa-ge-he-ti”) and I ordered a soup with vegetables. I didn’t recognize most of the veggies, but I noticed it had “green peppers”. Well, they weren’t American “green peppers” and it took about 40 minutes and an extra “bea leo” (beer) to finish it – it was so spicy.

After dinner we biked to the Supermarket about a mile or two away to get candy and breakfast. Michelle stayed with the bike outside because we had been told of a lot of bike theft. I think Michelle mostly wanted to stay outside to continue watching a most bizarre scene of about fifteen adults JAZZERCIZING in the parking lot! So, I went in to get the goods. First was some more rambutans, but then I spotted a big dragonfruit; next an Apple that was at least twice the size of a big Cub apple. I got some funny Thai candy all for about 50 cents- Yupi gummies, green tea flavored hard candy, and coffee candy. It’s almost impossible to find any real coffee here and I was craving the taste. When I got to the register, the woman rang everything up accept the produce. She gave me a frustrated laugh and pointed towards the produce. My confusion eventually turned into realization that there is a separate person for pricing produce! So there and back again I went, before I could finish my purchase.

Across from the grocery store was a little movie rental place. I wasn’t sure if last week’s Lost had finished loading (even after 44 hours!) so I bought a (no doubt) ripped Thai version of Balls of Fury for 45 baht (about $1.36) in the discount bin. Hey, there’s only so much reading a guy can do before he needs to experience some REAL literature!! And Christopher Walken is one of the greatest actors of our time – so what the heck.
Well, we got home to find that after 54 hours, the “little engine that could” - wireless connection we found, successfully downloaded the “Lost” episode.

After watching that brilliant masterpiece of a show, Michelle fell asleep and I decided to write a blog entry. Now I’m beginning to think of tomorrow’s class. What should I have the kid’s draw? More cartoons? I think I might have them draw each other again, but this time, without looking down at their paper. That should provide some laughs. I wonder if I can communicate the idea to the kids?

It’s about 1am, so my thoughts are becoming more weighty. I wonder about how to interact with the children. I wonder how much steering and “correcting” is helpful for them. While anytime I teach kids there are showers of praise – I wonder if here, I should limit my actions to that. It’s hard to try to think long term with these kids. Most of them look quite healthy, but every 5 minutes or so the phrase “these kids have HIV” races through my mind.

For years this orphanage could see 2-3 deaths in a week. Then in 2004 the Thai government released an almost magic potion called AIV. Before this, 5 years was considered old – now they have a 16 year old. These kids take the vaccine twice a day – 7am and 7pm. Any missed doses could prove to be detrimental, as the virus would overcome. The three hard working nurses have done a brilliant job keeping everyone vaccinated, but they are concerned. For in two years the kids will become adults and they will not be forced to live there any longer. One of the most important missions of the orphanage is to engrain in the kids’ minds and muscle memory the importance of this vaccination. While the thought of the kids turning 18 is a great worry of many, it is also an extraordinary dream.

A couple days ago one of the founders was recalling the time before 2004, “it was an incredible way to live – a funeral in the morning and a birthday party in the afternoon”. I could tell she had said that phrase a thousand times before to other family, friends, and volunteers, but it was still poignant.

So I wonder. Without many thoughts that I can write – I wonder about teaching and training, and helping and loving these children.



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Well, those last few paragraphs took a half an hour to write – so I guess I’m slowing down. Maybe time to go to bed. All the best to anyone reading, and we’d love to hear from you. Talk to you soon.

Luke

Chiang Mai Arrival

" The body is a multilingual being. It speaks through its color and its temperature, the flush of recognition, the glow of love, the ash of pain, the heat of arousal, the coldness of nonconviction. It speaks through its constant tiny dance, sometimes swaying, sometimes a-jitter, sometimes trembling. It speaks through the leaping of the heart, the falling of the spirit, the pit at the center, and rising hope."
- Clarissa Pinkola Estes, "Women Who Run with the Wolves"


We are in Chiang Mai now, learning to speak with hearts, eyes, pictures and movement when our words don't work. These languages work no matter where you go in the world.





Today was day 2 of our work at Agape Home orphanage for HIV/AIDS children, located in an outer district of Chiang Mai. Agape was started by a Canadian woman who, while working in a hospital in Thailand, fell in love with an HIV positive baby girl that the hospital had left in a bed to die. Her dream was to start a home and a family for the little children that the Thai government orphanages rejected as being hopeless cases. She wanted to make sure that, though these children's lives would be very short, while they lived they would know the love of a family and the joy of living. There are now 70 children at Agape, and they are doing very well and are VERY energetic!

Luke and I have a group of girls aged 10-13 that we both teach dance and art activities to, I have another group of 13-16 yr. olds for dance, and Luke has a group of 10-13 yr. old boys for art as well. Because of advances in AIDS medical technologies, the children are living longer and Agape (as first time parents of teenagers ;) is trying to adjust to the growing pangs! We are attempting to bring them joy, creativity, and healing as we lead them in dance and art activities while they are on their "hot season" holiday from school. We will be with them every day for another week and a half.
The kids are really precious! They are sweet and enthusiastic, and on the outside, look like normal healthy kids. There are obviously some additional challenges. Some of the girls have extra physical challenges, and some get worn out more quickly, but they look like they're trying so hard! It's so fun to watch them get into the dance moves!

Agape also has a separate home for mothers who are dying of AIDS, where they can stay with their children for as long as they live while Agape helps care for them and transition their children into the Agape family. We haven't had any interactions with this home yet, but I think it is such an important part of the work they are doing. Agape seems like a really amazing organization, and really does feel like a family as opposed to an institution. They are doing a lot to help families dealing with AIDS, in furthering education and options for women and children, and in preparing a new generation of HIV positive Thais to live normal lives in Thai society.

So, we're settling in at our narrow little , 2-story apartment in a row on Soi 3 (alleyway/street.) It has flickering flourescent lights, no furniture except beds and a table, and lizards going up and down the walls ALL the time. It is great and we are so happy to be settled after riding buses for 30 hours straight over the weekend! Last night we bought a bike (which we'll donate to Agape) to get us around town and to and from Agape which is about a 25 min. ride. We bought some groceries- bananas, rambutans, mangosteens, kiwi, grapes, bread and pringles!!! Thai fruit is delicious and so cheap. Also, tonight we had a delicious dinner of pad thai, red curry soup, and a large bottle of Singa beer- all for under 4 US dollars!! exciting!
I need to go to bed now, but we'll try to post as often as possible. Love you all!

Ton Sai

It’s been a whirlwind adventure of a past two weeks! Sorry not much communication- we’ve been on the road A LOT, and in tiny jungle villages with intermittent internet ;)

✈ Arrival

We arrived in Thailand late Friday night- same day as the Olympic torch. We stayed in Bangkok for just a day (and a day was plenty!) and then hopped a bus 12 hrs. south to Krabi province. We had some R&R time for a week before coming up to Chiang Mai to start work at the orphanage. At the recommendation of several friends and a backpacker’s guidebook, we sought out the small bay of Ton Sai, and found paradise there.
Before I sing its praises I’ll tell you a little about the South of Thailand. There are many small islands off the coasts (Gulf of Thailand on the E side, and Andaman Sea on the Indian ocean side) which are amazing and pristine, and have some of the most beautiful reefs and crystal-clear water. It is hot, sunny, and tropical at this time of year. The Thais in the South are mostly Muslim- interesting to observe women in head coverings driving motorcycles, along side of bikini-clad European tourists!
There are many spots in the S that are getting extremely touristy (ex. Ko Phangan and the Phi Phi islands featured in the Leo DiCaprio movie The Beach), and we tried to avoid those places, seeking some untouched nature and some peace and quiet.

☼ Ton Sai

The only way to get to Ao Ton Sai is by a steep climb through mountain, or by longtail boat- traditional Thai wooden boats whose prow is hung with flower garlands and bright fabric, and which run from a recycled car engine. So Ton Sai is pretty secluded. The view is straight out of my wildest dreams- giant karst rock formations jutting straight up out of the Andaman sea, crystal clear water.
The vibe there is dreamy. Bob Marley is the patron saint of Ton Sai- his image is painted on signs everywhere, and there are plenty of little reggae bars that play Legend all night. Thai Rasta boys with dreads down to their waists walk around saying “ don’t worry be happy” and “keep it real.” I wonder which came first- the backpackers and climbers who populate Ton Sai because it's the cheapest place to stay, or the Rasta vibe? ;)



☝ Day 1 of Ton Sai

We climb out of the long tail boat and wade to shore, our 6 mo.-luggage piled on our heads and shoulders. Hike into the jungle to find a cheap hut, interrupted by gigantic iguana thing (as big as a cat!) that scrambles out into the path in front of me. shriek! Find small one-room wood/bamboo hut on stilts with aqua blue mosquito net, fan, cold, open-roofed shower, Thai toilet (flushes with scooped water collected from your shower.) Cracks in floorboards are so big that a snake could get in if it wanted to. Perfect! We’ll take it!

There is electricity for parts of the day. It is extremely humid -nothing ever dries here, always mushy, soggy, damp. Smells like fruit rot. There’s motion and energy at every turn here- lizards constantly scampering up walls and ceilings, wild chickens run around, goats charge out of the jungle making me jump. Monkeys!!!

✌ Day 2 of Ton Sai

I am wide awake at 4 am. I listen to my ipod for several hours before the sun rises (weird to be able to listen to an ipod when you’re in a hut in the jungle ;) I listen to James Taylor and miss Rachel- is our 3rd day here to early to open your first letter, Rachie? ;) Then I listen to Bon Iver. He’s fantastic-thanks Dan! Sun rises. We sit on a strip of sand and watch water. Eat breakfast of banana pancake and plate of fruit. Swim. Explore. Chill out on beach as sunsets. Chili Peppers music coming from bar to my left, Damian Marley being played to my right. Um, I could live here forever maybe?

♡ Rest of the days at Ton Sai

There’s too many stories to write about at this time, so let me try to boil it down to the important stuff; some inspiring new friends, and a list of top five adventures over the past week.

First, the small village of Ton Sai. The people there treat us like human beings instead of tourists, like we’ve been treated everywhere else we’ve stopped in Thailand. Luke and I became fast friends with a group of the Thai “Rasta boys.” There is a group of about 6 of them who are amazing football (soccer) players, and work at the “Chill Out” bar during the high season, though their home is close to the Malaysia border. They have all grown up together, and work on a farm together when they’re not at Ton Sai. They are the best of friends- each other’s soul mates, and a true lesson in loyalty and hospitality to me.
First we met “Rain.” He walked past me and asked “how are you doing today?” I said that I was well, and asked how he was doing. He replied “medium” and kept walking down the path, laughing all the way. To be in Rainy’s presence is to be always laughing and joyful. He is small and dark with crimpy hair down to his waist, and usually wears a tye-dyed tank top that says Ben & Jerry’s on the front, and bright pink fisherman pants. He is quick, witty, and wicked at Connect Four.
Then there is Chirro- proud, shy, beautiful. He looks like the illegitimate Thai son of Bob Marley. Tom is a batik artist. Anand is quiet and has sweet dimples. Then there are a few others whose names I didn’t learn, and these guys do everything together, including play on their own title-winning football team barefoot on the beach, and walk around as a unit all the time. These guys’ care for and loyalty to each other inspires me to live that closely with my own community of friends.
Lucky for us, they invited Luke and I into their family, and the best night of our trip so far happened behind a hut in the jungle where we all sat in a circle on a bamboo mat around a small fire, and sang our hearts and guitars out to Bob Marley songs in broken English under the stars. There was real love that night!♥

☠ 5 Best Adventures of First Week!

1. Day trip Sea diving at 4 islands and Sea Gypsy curry on the beach
2. Climbing slippery rocks in rainstorm on Railay beach. Lots of cuts and curses!
3. when our new friend Rain saved us from foot-long, red, poisonous centipede
4. Rasta boys football team wins local beach championship and we celebrate with them Thai Rasta boy-style ☺
5. Fire dancing festival at which 11 yr. old Thai boy spins fire and shakes banana leaf-clad butt to “the roof, the roof, the roof is on fire, we don’t need no water let that (expletives) burn!”

we're here!

We arrived in Bangkok safely. more to come soon...!

hi friends!
this is where we will hopefully post musings along the way of our travels- if we can find time and internet services, that is :) at this point, we are planning to depart for Chiang Mai Thailand in mid to late April. only 2 months from now!!! we will spend a month working in an orphanage for HIV/AIDS children, and researching the Thai Hill Tribe people and ways to prevent the spread of human-trafficking of their young girls. then it's off to Stavern, Norway to live on a communal farm of artists on the North Sea, where Luke will be apprenticing the painter Odd Nerdrum, and I will be, um, grinding berries for paint, maybe? doing some solo camping? learning how to sail? the possibilities are as endless as the cornflower-blue Norwegian summer sky!

so, keep an eye on this blog... and we are still looking for friends or acquaintances who are interested in renting our house.